GAURAV PINCHAFINE JEWELS
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Atelier

Made by hand,
in Kolkata

Every jewel passes through the same few pairs of hands, and through no one else’s.

Jadau necklace and pendant with rubies, emeralds and uncut diamonds
I. The drawing

It begins on paper

Each piece starts as a drawing, made with the client where possible. We sketch, adjust and sketch again until the proportions are right on the body, not just on the page. For the most intricate settings the drawing is then refined in computer-aided design, so the karigar knows exactly where every stone will sit.

Emerald-cut emerald earrings framed in diamonds
II. The stones

Chosen by a gemologist

We use only natural diamonds and natural coloured stones. Every one is examined in our office before it is set, for colour, clarity and cut, and for the quality that no certificate can describe: whether it is beautiful.

Gaurav Pincha is a Graduate Gemologist of the Gemological Institute of America.

A jadau and pearl earring with green enamel
III. The setting

Polki, kundan and jadau

Our karigars still practise the old Indian settings. In kundan and jadau, each stone is bedded in pure gold foil pressed in by hand. In polki, uncut diamonds are set flat, so they glow rather than sparkle. It is slow work, and it cannot be hurried without showing.

The back of a piece matters as much as the front. Many of our bridal jewels are finished with hand-painted enamel on the reverse, seen only by the woman who wears them.

IV. The finish

Only when it is right

Every jewel is checked, cleaned, photographed and recorded before it leaves the atelier. If something is not right, it goes back to the bench. That is the whole of our method.

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