How to buy an emerald: colour, clarity and treatment
The most beloved green stone is also the one most often misunderstood.
Emeralds have belonged to Indian jewellery since the Mughal emperors carved them with verses. They are still the coloured stone our clients ask for most. Buying one well means unlearning a few habits from buying diamonds.
What makes a good emerald?
Colour, above everything. The finest emeralds are a pure, vivid green to slightly bluish green, with even colour and good saturation, neither too dark nor too pale. A smaller emerald with beautiful colour is worth more than a large, washed-out one.
Do emeralds have inclusions?
Almost always. Emeralds grow with natural inclusions, which gemologists poetically call the jardin, or garden. An emerald with no inclusions at all is extraordinarily rare and should be examined carefully. What matters is that inclusions do not cloud the stone or weaken it.
Are emeralds treated?
Most are. It is common and accepted practice to fill surface-reaching fissures with oil or resin to improve clarity. The important thing is disclosure: a reputable jeweller will tell you, and a laboratory report for an important stone will state the degree of clarity enhancement, from none to significant. Lightly treated stones are more valuable than heavily treated ones.
Where do the best emeralds come from?
Colombia is the most famous source, known for warm, vivid greens. Zambia produces fine emeralds with a slightly bluer, cooler tone, and Brazil and Afghanistan are other notable sources. Origin can affect price, but judge the stone in front of you, not only its passport.
How should I care for an emerald?
Emeralds are fairly hard but brittle. Avoid sharp knocks, sudden temperature changes and ultrasonic or steam cleaners, which can damage the stone and remove the oil. Wipe them with a soft cloth and have the setting checked once a year.
Bring your emerald to the store if you would like it looked at under the loupe. It is one of my favourite parts of the job.
Questions about a stone or a piece? Message us on WhatsApp or visit the store on Shakespeare Sarani.