Kundan, polki and jadau: what is the difference?
Three words that are used as if they mean the same thing. They do not.
Ask ten people the difference between kundan, polki and jadau and you will hear ten answers. The confusion is understandable, because the three are often found in the same piece. But they describe different things, and knowing which is which protects you when you buy.
What is jadau?
Jadau is the craft: the traditional technique of embedding stones into gold without claws or prongs. It came to its height in the Mughal courts and in Rajasthan and Gujarat. The karigar heats the gold, presses the stone into it and builds the setting around it by hand.
What is kundan?
Kundan refers to the highly refined, almost pure gold foil that jadau craftsmen press around each stone to hold it in place and frame it. Over time, ‘kundan jewellery’ has come to mean any piece set in this way. Importantly, the stones in kundan jewellery may be diamonds, coloured gems or glass.
What is polki?
Polki is the stone: a diamond in its natural, uncut form, cleaved and polished but without the many facets of a modern brilliant. Because it is set flat and often backed with foil, it glows softly rather than sparkling. Polki is usually set in the jadau technique, using kundan foil.
So which is more valuable?
A piece set with polki contains real diamonds, so it is generally more valuable than a kundan piece set with glass or synthetic stones, even if the two look similar at first glance. Always ask what the stones are, and expect the invoice to say so.
What is meenakari?
Meenakari is the enamelling often found on the back of jadau and polki pieces: hand-painted colours, fused into the gold. It is a sign of fine work, because it is seen only by the person who wears the piece.
In short: jadau is how it is made, kundan is what holds the stone, and polki is the stone. A fine bridal piece is often all three.
Questions about a stone or a piece? Message us on WhatsApp or visit the store on Shakespeare Sarani.